Early on in our sailing career, the first mate and I discovered that we really enjoy anchoring out overnight. The bays in the North Idaho lakes where we cruise are surrounded by snow-capped mountains, covered by crystal clear starry skies, and afford plenty of privacy. The problem was, Summer Dance didn’t have an anchor light, which is a shame because according to the original invoice that I have, it would have only cost $36 in 1981 when she was built. Not even $tingy Sailor can add one that cheaply today.
According to Rule 30, paragraph (e) of the United States Coast Guard Navigation Rules (COLREGS), an anchor light is not always required on sailing vessels the size of the Catalina 22:
“(e) A vessel of less than 7 meters in length, when at anchor, not in or near a narrow channel, fairway, anchorage, or where other vessels normally navigate, shall not be required to exhibit the lights or shape prescribed in paragraphs (a) and (b) of this Rule.”
That pretty much sums up where we anchor most of the time although occasionally in a quiet anchorage. Seven meters equals 22.9659 feet. The length of a Catalina 22 hull is 21.5 feet, a foot and a half under the minimum length for a mandatory anchor light. But not wanting to get run into by drunk or wayward powerboaters, I took on the challenge anyway.
The good news is that the hull was already wired for one. I found one end of the positive wire near the breaker panel and labeled “Mast.” They probably wired them all that way during manufacturing and only added the hardware if ordered. The first hurdle was finding the other end of that wire. Almost all of the wiring in the first generation C-22s is embedded in the fiberglass of the boat. This makes the wiring mostly unserviceable. When no mast light is installed at the factory, there is also no mast wiring connector near the step. Fortunately, Catalina made a little dimple in the cabin roof a couple inches to the left of the mast step to indicate where the mast wiring terminates inside the upper deck.
Drilling for copper
Starting with a 1/4 twist bit, I cautiously drilled into the dimple and was relieved when the bit broke through into a void between the roof deck and the cabin liner. Then with a 1/2″ hole saw, I opened up the hole so that I could fish the wire ends out of the void with a coat hanger. About a foot of 16 gauge black and white wiring emerged that hadn’t been touched in 33 years. I connected the ends to the female half of a Sea-Dog 426262-1 polarized connector and screwed it into pilot holes in the deck sealed with butyl tape. I connected the other end of the positive wire to one of the breaker switches in the electrical panel. The other end of the negative wire was already connected to a common ground wire that runs along the port hull seam and serves the port dome lights and the bow navigation light.
With power to the mast step, the rest of the circuit needs to be inside the mast. I pulled 25′ of 16/2 duplex wiring through the mast and made a loop in the cable with a Zip Tie around the masthead bolt to carry the weight of the cable instead of the light connections. Before making the connections on both ends, I slipped closed cell foam pool “noodles” over the cable inside the mast. These prevent the cable from being damaged by hardware fasteners that protrude inside the mast and they prevent the mast from ringing from the cable slapping inside the mast when at anchor. This is much easier and cheaper to install than the recommended PVC conduit.
I drilled a 1/2″ hole in the bottom of the mast on the port side above the step and installed a rubber grommet. I ran the lower end through the grommet, slipped a piece of braided flex loom over the end to dress it up and connected the conductors to the male end of the deck connector.
It’s lonely (and expensive) at the top
At the top of the mast, the conventional wisdom is to use parts from a certain Catalina parts dealership:
- Z2004 Navigation Anchor Light
- D1157 Anchor Light Mast Mount Tube
- Z1798 Anchor Light Tube Installation Kit (if you don’t already own the right drill bits and taps)
But that’s over $70 before replacing the incandescent bulb with the LED array that I described in LED conversion. Being one who doesn’t always follow the conventional wisdom, I purchased the same Aqua Signal series 25 light from my local marine discounter for $10 and set out to fabricate my own mast mount tube.
I used a leftover piece of 1″ aluminum tube from my bimini project and purchased a 3/4″ length of 2-1/2″ diameter UHMW rod from my local specialty metals shop. Along with a through hole for the wiring, I drilled a 1″ diameter countersink in the bottom of the disk to accept the tube, countersank two panhead screws through the sides to attach the disk to the tube, and drilled three pilot holes in the top of the disk to mount the light.
The assembled mount is very solid. At the bottom of the tube, I cut out a profile to fit the side of the masthead casting and I drilled and tapped the masthead for two 10-24 machine screws to attach the completed light assembly.
I also drilled a 1/4″ hole through the bottom of the masthead to route the wires up through the tube and into the light base where they connect to the terminal screws.
To finish the project, I replaced the 10 watt incandescent bulb with a 3.6 watt cool white LED array (#819279) from Sailboatowners.com. The LEDs put out brighter light than the old style bulb and use a third of the power.
Now we’re properly lit while staring at the stars from our king size bed made up in the salon.
The Bottom Line
Suggested price: $163.68
$tingy Sailor cost: $61.76
Most C-22s have a similar anchor light setup. Is yours different and how do you like it?